One of our visitor, Beckie Flansburgh, wrote and asked if I could find a Zygopetalum orchid living in my greenhouse.
After looking around, I found several of these very fragrant, easy to grow orchids.
Because she asked about them, this article is dedicated to Beckie.

The approximately 14 species of the Zygopetalum genus fall in the general category of "soft leaf" orchids.

These extraordinary orchids produce brightly colored flowers of greens, purples, burgundy, and raspberry shades in various exotic patterns.
The blossoms have a fragrance reminiscent of the heavy perfume of a Hyacinth or Narcissus.

What is truly extraordinary about these orchids that is their behavior on pollination.

When for example Z. mackaii becomes pollinated, the sepals curl inwards almost instantly, protecting the column fom latecomer insect visitors. Then the sepals do not dry and fell off as that is normal with the overwhelming majority of ochids but become transformed into green photo-synthetizing organs and remain on the fruit.

For a little history: it was in 1827, that a gentleman from Brazil by the name of Mr. Mackay gave a newly discovered orchid to the world famous orchidist Sir William Hooker.
Sir Hooker placed the unique new orchid into a brand new genus which he called Zygopetalum and named the first species, Zygopetalum mackaii, in honor of Mr. Mackay.

The litograph shown here is the one which accompanied the original description of this species published in Sir Joseph Paxton's Botanical Magazine and it is captioned as

"Zygopetalon mackaii Mr. Mackay's Zygopetalon"

In the name Zygopetalum, "zygon" in Greek is yoke, like the device used on the neck of oxen to pull ploughs. "Petalon" is petal, and this describes the way the petals are connected with a yoke type of connection. After over 180 years, people are now starting to re-discover these beautiful orchids and Zygopetalums are becoming very popular again.

Many of the species are readily available to the general public under names like Zygopetalum mackaii, Zygopetalum crinitum, Zygopetalum brachypetalum, Zygopetalum triste and Zygopetalum maxillare.

There are also many new and interesting hybrids available. Some of the well known hybrids include Zygo. Arthur Elle 'Bright and Blue' and Zygo. Blue Eyes 'Ben Hur' AM/AOS Louisendorf.

LIGHT
I believe that light is the most important factor for the general wellbeing and to produce flowering in these orchids.

I have to comment on the differences on the light recommendations for Zygopetalums in various orchid books.
I have found recommendations ranging from low diffused light to bright light. Although I personally have better success using high light conditions, you may have to experiment to find the right light levels for your particular orchid.

The explanation lies in the natural environments necessary for these orchids. The majority of Zygopetalum species are either terrestrial or grow as epiphytes near to the ground in forests. In those microhabitats they are exposed to flickering spots of sunlight filtered by the forest canopy. Although they want lots of light, they do not want to be exposed to direct sun for long periods.

If you are growing Zygopetalums in a greenhouse, you will want to provide at least 55% shade coverings around the plants. Light in the 3000 to 4000 foot candle range gives me excellent results.

Watch the leaves and they will tell you if you have the right amount of light. Be careful when adjusting your light exposure, because the leaves will burn very easily if over exposed. The leaves should be light green.

Dark leaves are a sign of too little light, while yellowish green leaves are a sign too much light. They should do well in the home in a bright window but away from the direct sun.

TEMPERATURE
If you live in a mild climate such as Southern California, these plants can be grown outdoors with your Cymbidiums with shade from the hot afternoon sun.
They can tolerate temperatures from the high 90's ºF to lows in the 30's ºF for short periods. Ideally, they prefer warm days in the 70-80 ºF range and cool nights of
50-60 ºF.

WATERING
Zygopetalums love water when they are in active growth! Lots of water, but not wet feet (roots soaking in stagnant water). Water thoroughly at least once or even twice a week to keep them moist. The amount of water will depend on the temperature and media. If the leaf tips start to die back and turn black, this could be a sign of a heavy buildup of salts from the water and fertilizer.

Zygopetalum roots are very sensitive to excessive salt buildup which will kill your plant if not corrected in time. To avoid this problem, be sure use enough water during watering to ensure that the water flows freely out of the pot. Doing this will wash out the excess salts in the media and prevent buildup in the first place.

In properly watered substrates roots more than several years old remain still active.

Cut back on the water in the winter but NEVER let your Zygopetalum to dry out. Your orchid will also enjoy overhead misting between watering as long as the leaves are dry by nightfall.

FERTILIZING
Zygopetalums are moderate feeders.
During the growing season (February-August) I suggest using a higher nitrogen fertilizer. Switch to a "Bloom Booster" high phosphorus fertilizer from August to October and then use a more balanced fertilizer in the wintertime.

Some growers use slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote sprinkled on top of the potting mix. This is method is fine - if you are watering with a sprinkler system. If you properly hand water, however, you most likely will wash the small granules right out of the pot.
I would also suggest cutting the recommended Osmocote amount used to 1/2 the dosage.
I prefer (and so do my orchids) a water-soluble fertilizer like Dyna-Gro or Jerry's Wonder Grow.

HUMIDITY
A humidity level of at least 60% is needed for all soft-leaf orchids. To create the required humidity around your orchid, place it on a pebble tray or use a room humidifier. They benefit from daily misting like most orchids.

AIR MOVEMENT
Like most other orchids, Zygopetalums require air movement which moves the humid air among their root systems. Stale or stagnant air is just a breeding ground for bacterial and fungal blights. Place a fan in the area to provide the necessary air circulation. The fan should provide a comfortable breeze, not a blowing wind. If you are uncomfortable standing in front of the fan, then the orchid will not like it either.

POTTING
Never allow your plant to become pot bound. When your plant fills its pot it is time to give it a new home. This should happen every two or three years.

Remember what was said about their old roots; do not trim the root system back if there are no soft rotting root parts. The best time to repot is right after it has finished blooming.
When you repot, it is a good time to take divisions if you would like to increase the number of your plants (they make great gifts for your friends!).

When dividing, always allow at least 2-3 pseudobulbs per division.
You can just break apart the division then place the division in a pot big enough to allow 2 years growth. Commercial growers trim off old growth and roots and spread the roots in the pot (never roll them in a ball).

Plants trimmed-combed-manicured in that way may look like if they just came from the cosmetics salon right around the corner but certain Zygopetalum species in their natural environments retain their leaves on old pseudobulbs over more than a decade and even quite tattered, old leaves do contribute significantly to the nutrition of the whole plant.

Of course if you are after awards granted to greenfingers for dubious "Horticultural Merit" cups or ribbons naturally-looking plants are sure loosers...

Use a slightly acid potting mix which also provides good drainage but will not dry out too quickly. Fine orchid bark with 20% sponge rock or perlite, with a touch of sand, coarse peat and fine charcoal is a very good mix. The mix should be firm in the pot because loose mix will quickly break down and not support the roots.

After potting, place your orchid in a shady and cool area for a few weeks to allow it to adjust to its new home and to encourage new root growth. During this time, keep it on the slightly dry side when watering.

BLOOMING TIP
Zygopetalums will usually bloom when the light is suddenly reduced by the shorter days.

You can try to trigger their blooming by shortening the day-length by 2 hours for 3 or 4 weeks. Some will bloom off the last matured pseudobulb, and some will only bloom from new growth.

You are now ready to go out and purchase your first Zygopetalum!

Here is a basketful of a modern Zygopetalum hybrid for you...

The specimen shown below received a Gold Medal at the
18th World Orchid Congress
(10 - 20 March 2005, Dijon, France).

Here is a closer look of the flowers:

   Currently, in the spring of 2005 there are fourteen Zygopetalum species acknowledged by specialist orchidologists as legitimate, valid concepts. The number of invalid names and synonyms runs to hundreds; let's deal only with three here.

   Concerning the correctness of the Z. mackaii or the more frequently used Z. mackayii spelling is rather irrelevant in the light of the sad fact that this orchid has no less than eleven synonym names out of which the currently valid name is Zygopetalum maculatum (Kunth) Garay (1970.) Nevertheless, the almost one hundred and eighty years passed since Blume published the Z. mackaii name engraved it so solidly that it is still going strong in orchid vendor and hobbyist circles.

   Zygopetalum crinitum on a litograph published in Reichenbachia Volume II Series I. for all practical purposes seems to be Z. mackaii = mackayii = maculatum.

   Further, Z. crinitum (P.N. Don) Loddiges (1831.) long time ago became Promenea xanthina (Lindley) Lindley (1843.).

    Zygopetalum brachypetalum is a nomen nudum, that is, a nude name only, written for the first time onto a herbarium sheet by John Lindley over one and a half century ago and left at that, i.e. unpublished. The sheet is catalogued as "84 Brazil". Thus, that sheet number itself could/can also be used for any unknown Zygo'.

    As the Latin brachypetalum refers to short petals, this horticultural fantasy name may mean either Zygopetalum species or hybrids, which do/may have short petals - or not ...
Quite clear, isn't it?